Sweeping and mopping
Grit is what abrades a top coat and it arrives on your tires and your shoes. Sweeping or blowing your floor out now and then does more for its life than any cleaner. A mop and warm water handles the rest.
Garage
Garage Floor Coating That Takes Hot Tires and Road Salt
If your garage floor is patched, stained and chalking dust over everything you store, that is the slab telling you it was never sealed. We grind it back to bare concrete and coat it, so you get a floor you can mop, park a hot car on, and stop apologising for.
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Call or Text (203) 496-6386
Free, no obligation, and nothing to sign. We answer the same day, weekends included.
What is the best coating for a garage floor?
Flake, for most people, most of the time. It fixes the three things that make your garage floor look tired, and it is what we put down more often than everything else combined.
It hides the slab
We broadcast chip to full coverage, so you get a new surface over the patches and stains instead of a thin color that shows every one of them.
It grips
The chip edges break up the surface, so your floor is not slick when a car brings rain in. If it slopes to a door, we put more grit in the top coat.
It survives hot tires
Hot tire pickup is what lifts a rolled-on DIY kit. A ground and properly bonded system does not have that failure mode, which is most of what you are paying for.
Garage Floor Coating Cure Time
Longer than a day, and shorter than you are probably fearing. We grind it, we coat it, and then it has to be left alone.
Walking versus parking
You can walk on a floor well before you can park on it. Putting a car back too early is the single most common way a good floor gets damaged.
Weather changes it
Cure times stretch as it gets colder, so a November job is a real scheduling conversation. It is one of the reasons we specify polyaspartic.
Every floor on this page is one we poured
How We Coat Your Garage Floor, Step by Step
Most of a typical two-car garage is waiting rather than working. We do not change the order, because every step needs the one before it properly cured.
The garage comes empty
Everything out, including the shelving and the freezer nobody wants to move. Our grinder has to reach every inch of your slab, and a floor coated around an obstacle keeps a visible line where the obstacle was.
Diamond grinding, with extraction
We grind your slab back to bare, open concrete. This is not acid etching and it is not a pressure wash. Grinding opens the pores so the resin has something to key into, and it takes the laitance, old sealer and contamination off with it. Our machine runs a vacuum, so the dust that worries people mostly does not happen.
Cracks, pits and the expansion joint
Cracks get cut out into a V, vacuumed and filled with a structural repair compound, then ground flat. Spalled edges and pits are patched the same way. Expansion joints are a decision: filled flush they disappear, honoured they stay visible and stay able to move. Brad will ask which you want and there is a right answer for your slab.
Base coat and broadcast
We lay the pigmented base and throw the flake into it while it is still wet, to refusal, which means until your floor will not take any more. That is what gives you full coverage instead of a scattered look. Once it cures, we scrape and vacuum the excess back off.
Top coat
We put one or two clear coats over the top, and that is the layer taking your tires, your trolley jack and the socket you drop. If your floor needs more traction than the flake gives it, grit goes into this coat.
Cure, then walk, then park
Walk-on comes first and drive-on comes noticeably later. Putting a car back early is the single most common way a good new floor is damaged, and Brad gives you both dates for your system and that week's temperature.
What Changes the Price of a Garage Floor
Two garages the same size can come out some way apart on price, and it is almost never the coating that separates yours.
How much preparation the slab needs
A bare, sound slab grinds and coats. If yours has old paint, a failed DIY kit, tile adhesive or a sealer on it, we have to take all of that off first, and removal is slow. This is the biggest single reason two quotes differ.
Crack and spall repair
Every crack we cut and fill is time and material. A slab with one hairline crack and a slab mapped with them are different jobs.
Moisture
If the slab tests wet it needs a mitigation layer before anything else, and that is a real addition rather than an upsell. It is also the one thing you can check yourself before you take any quotes.
Which system
Flake and solid color sit at the same rate. Metallic costs you more because we work it by hand while the resin is still moving.
Size, and not the way you would expect
Doubling your floor does not double your price. Mobilisation, grinding setup and cure time barely change, so the rate falls as the floor gets bigger. Bigger floors cost less per foot.
Looking After a Coated Garage Floor
Very little, and none of it is a product you have to buy from us.
What not to use
Anything acidic will dull a clear coat over time, and citrus-based degreasers are the usual culprit. Soft soap and water is genuinely enough.
Snow, salt and winter
Your car brings road salt in all winter. It will not eat the coating, but salty meltwater left to dry leaves a film that grinds underfoot. Rinsing it off in spring takes you ten minutes.
If something does damage it
We can repair a resin floor in place. A gouge or a burn gets cut out, filled and recoated, and on a flake floor the repair effectively disappears, because the chip pattern hides the join.
What customers wrote
4.7 from 15 Google reviews. We publish every one of them on the reviews page, including the one star and what came of it.
Great experience thanks again Brad
Great experiwnce with brad thanks for the great floor
great job on my garage floors thanks again
Why Garage Floor Coatings Fail
Almost always one of four things, and three of them get decided before the first coat goes down on your floor.
The slab was not ground
Acid etching and pressure washing do not open your concrete the way our grinding does. A coating bonded to the surface film rather than to the concrete lifts, and it lifts in sheets.
Hot tire pickup
A warm tire parked on a poorly bonded coating softens it and pulls it up when the car moves. You get a patch of missing floor the shape of the tire. It is a bond failure, not a material failure, and it does not happen on a properly prepared floor.
Moisture from underneath
Vapour moving up through your slab pushes the coating off. Nothing applied on top solves it, so we handle it before we coat.
Sunlight through the door
Clear epoxy ambers in UV. If your garage has glass in the door or gets left open all summer, we put a UV-stable top coat on it, or your floor ends up two different colors where the light falls.
Coatings we install
We install six systems, and most floors we put down combine two of them.
Flake
- Where it fits
- Garages and basements
- How it looks
- Vinyl chip broadcast into the body coat. Busier blends hide more of a working slab.
- Where we use it
- The garage floor we put down most.
Solid color
- Where it fits
- Workshops, warehouses, basements
- How it looks
- One flat color, sealed and cleanable.
- Where we use it
- Floors you need easy to clean, where we can add line marking.
Metallic
- Where it fits
- Attached garages, showrooms, countertops
- How it looks
- Pigment moved through the resin while it's wet, so no two floors come out the same.
- Where we use it
- Floors you look at as part of the house, which is where we get asked for it most.
Quartz
- Where it fits
- Commercial kitchens and wet areas
- How it looks
- Colored quartz aggregate for a hard, textured floor.
- Where we use it
- Floors where we have to meet a slip specification.
Polyaspartic
- Where it fits
- Top coat over any system, patios
- How it looks
- A UV-stable clear coat that cures in hours.
- Where we use it
- We use it for sunlight, cold weather and fast turnarounds.
Anti-slip
- Where it fits
- Pool decks, ramps, plant floors
- How it looks
- A coarse broadcast texture in the surface.
- Where we use it
- We put it where your floor gets wet or sits outdoors.
What's under your finished floor
We put down four layers, and each one has its own job. Scroll and we'll take your floor apart so you can see them.
- Polyaspartic top coatWe finish with a UV-stable, hard-wearing coat that takes your tires, your chemicals and the sunlight so the color underneath doesn't.
- Color and flake coatOur body coat carries your flake blend or metallic pour, so this is the layer you picked.
- Primer and moisture barrierWe work it into the opened concrete, and it locks everything above it to your slab.
- Concrete substrateYour slab. We diamond grind it back to bare concrete so everything we put on top has something to grip.
A DIY kit against a professional floor
They look alike on day one. Drag the timeline and watch what changes.
Day 1Year 1Year 3
- Day 1 Rolled onto a washed slab. It looks fine.
- Year 1 Hot tires lift it where it never bonded to the concrete.
- Year 3 Peeling and stained, and we have to grind the old coat off before anything new goes down.
- Day 1 We diamond grind your slab, then put down the primer, body coat and top coat.
- Year 1 We bond ours to opened concrete, so nothing lifts.
- Year 3 Yours wipes clean, and we back the coating with a lifetime product warranty.
How big is your floor?
Slide to your size and see what fits it. Brad gives you the exact number when he's seen the slab.
2-car garageAbout 20 by 22 feet
What we'd suggestFlake, solid color or metallic
What we put downWe grind your slab, then primer, a color or flake coat and the top coat
Install timeMost residential floors are finished in a day.
How your epoxy floor gets done, from first call to parking on it
Three steps, and Brad does every one of them himself. Most residential floors are finished in a day.
- 1
You call, text or send the form
Tell us the room and roughly how big it is. We'll talk you through the range and book a time to come and look, often the same day. Weekends count, and there's nothing to sign.
- 2
Brad reads your slab and you pick your finish
He checks for cracks, old coating and moisture, then measures up. You choose your flake blend or metallic against your own floor, not a brochure. Your written quote comes back the same day.
- 3
We grind it back and build your floor up
Your slab goes back to bare concrete under a diamond grinder with dust extraction. Then the primer, the body coat with your flake or metallic, and the top coat. You get your walk-on and park-on times with the quote.
Hot tire pickup is a bond failure
A ground slab does not have that failure mode. Ask any contractor how they prepare the concrete and the answer tells you more than the price.
Get my free quoteQuestions people ask
Do I need to empty the garage?
Yes, completely. We have to reach your floor end to end to grind it.
Can you coat around a car lift?
Yes, and tell us before the day rather than have us work around it.
What about the apron outside the door?
We can coat it, and outdoors means a UV-stable top coat so it does not amber where the sun lands.
Will it be slippery?
Flake has texture built in. Tell Brad if your floor slopes or gets a lot of water and we put more grit in the top coat.
How much does it cost to epoxy a two-car garage?
Measure it, length times width, and send that with a photo of the slab. Small floors fall under a flat minimum rather than a rate by the foot, and Brad tells you which yours is.
How long does a garage floor coating last?
On a properly ground and bonded slab, many years of your normal use. What wears is the top coat, and we renew a top coat without redoing your floor.
Can you coat a garage floor in winter?
Often, and we change the system. Epoxy gets unreliable as temperatures drop, where polyaspartic keeps working, which here is frequently the difference between your floor happening in November and waiting for spring.
Do I have to move everything out?
Yes, completely. The floor has to be reachable end to end, and anything left in place leaves a visible outline.
Is epoxy better than a garage floor tile or a mat?
It is a different trade-off. Tiles and mats go down in a day and you can lift them. What we put down is bonded and seamless, with nothing for water or dirt to get underneath.
What about the expansion joint?
Filled flush it disappears, honoured it stays visible and stays able to move. Which is right depends on the slab, and Brad will tell you which.
Can you match my garage door or my cabinets?
We pick base colors and flake blends to work with them. Bring a sample or a photo when Brad comes out.
Will it be slippery when the car brings snow in?
Flake has texture built in. If your floor slopes to the door or gets a lot of water, say so and we put more grit into the top coat.
Ready to stop looking at that floor?
Tell us roughly what you have and we'll come and look at it. The quote is free, there's nothing to sign, and you'll know what your floor costs before you commit to anything.
Get Your Free Quote Call or Text (203) 496-6386